- Read this post first if you want to include the optional 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inch overhang on all 4 sides
You should also nail through the sidewall siding into the ends of each truss to secure the roof structure to the rest of the shed.
Hang trusses: Hang the trusses upside down between the walls with each end resting on the top plate directly over a wall stud.
For aesthetic purposes only: Make sure to hang the trusses so that the collar beam on all trusses face the same direction… Either facing to the front of the shed or to the rear.
Install trusses: Stand the first truss upright and center it over a stud.
The wall studs and trusses are both 24 inch on center so just align the end of a truss up with the stud under the top plate and it will be in the correct position.
Make sure the truss is pushed tight against the siding and run a 3 inch screw through the bottom plate into the truss on both sides of the stud.
Do the same for this the rest of the trusses on this side.
The other end: If the other end of the truss doesn’t fit tight against the siding you can hook the ends of a cargo strap over the siding on either wall and gently pull the walls together until they fit tight to the ends of the truss.
Then run a 3 inch screw through the bottom plate into the truss on both sides of the stud like before.
Repeat for all trusses.
Optional overhang
If you want to add 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inches of overhang then read this step now. Continue below for no overhang.
Install the roof sheeting: Begin installing the roof sheeting with a full 8 ft sheet aligned at the top edge of the truss and put a single nail in the outside corner at the top of the truss.
Start the edge of the sheeting at the outside edge of the end truss.
Split the truss with the opposite edge of the sheeting and nail into the truss at the top corner.
Repeat for the rest of the large pieces of sheeting on the first side.
See Figure 8: Measure and mark the truss spacing for the rest of the trusses and nail with a single nail at the top of the truss at 24 inches on center.
Measure the end truss spacing from the outside edge of the end trusses to the center of the closest truss, not including the siding (from the joint of the siding and the truss).
The inside trusses are measured center to center.
Stagger the seams: Nail the large sheets for the other side along the top of the trusses only, but stagger the seams if possible for a stronger shed.
Nail bottom edge: Check that the bottom edges of the sheeting are properly aligned with the trusses. The edge should align with the edge of the outside trusses or in the center of the inside trusses.
If they don’t align properly that means either that the floor isn’t level or the walls are not square.
But don’t be alarmed if they aren’t properly aligned because that rarely happens.
The cure is to put a jack under one corner of the shed and lift it until the sheeting comes into proper alignment. If jacking makes it worse then you are lifting the wrong corner of the shed. Move your jack to the adjacent corner and try again. When a piece of sheeting lines up properly then nail it into the truss below.
Continue jacking different corners of the shed until you get all the pieces of roof sheeting in proper alignment and nailed in place.
You might have to re-level or re-block your shed at this point.
Snap a chalk line to identify the underlying trusses and nail the sheeting in place with 8d nails every 8 inches. Put plenty of nails at both edges of the sheeting, particularly where the sheets meets at a truss.
Secure siding to trusses: Nail two 8d nails from the outside through the sidewall siding into both ends of each truss to further secure the roof structure to the rest of the shed.
Finish sheeting: Stagger and install the bottom row of roof sheeting. You should have a 2 inch overhang on the eave sides and nothing at the gable ends.