How To Build A Shed in 10 Steps

This video shows a quick summary of the shed building process using my regular gable roof shed plans.

This video shows building a 12×20 shed using the same plans, but with the optional 8 ft sidewalls.

This video shows building a 10×12 tall barn style shed with a loft.

Features Of This Shed Design

• Roof line: Gable
• Roof pitch: 3/12
• Overhang: 3 1/2 inch or 5 1/2 inch option
• Roof covering: Asphalt shingles
• Roof structure: 2×4 trusses 24 inch O.C.
• Foundation: Pressure treated 4×4 skids
• Floor joists: (8 wide) 2×4 at 16 inch O.C. (10/12 wide) 2×6 at 16 inch O.C.
• Floor covering: 3/4 inch CDX plywood
• Wall materials: 4×8 sheets of hardboard siding or T-111
• Wall stud spacing: 2×4 at 24 inch O.C.
• Wall framing: top and bottom plates with double corner studs
• Door style: Out swinging shed door
• Door location: Can be located any where on any wall
• Overall height at peak, not including foundation: 8 ft
• Outside wall height at eaves, not including foundation: 7 ft
• Door opening: 43 inches by 71 inches
• Minimum inside height: 77 inches
• Maximum inside height: 92 inches
• Inside height under collar beam: 84 inches

The 10 Steps

Construction is broken down into the following 10 steps which are common to all of my shed plans…
1) Foundation
2) Floor
3) Trusses
4) Walls
5) Door
6) Raise walls
7) Open door
8) Roof structure
9) Trim
10) Shingle roof

These plans include dimensions to build a wooden storage shed or garden shed in 21 different sizes from 8×4 to 12×20 as listed across the top of Table 1.

Once you have decided what size shed you want to build, purchase the number of items shown below your chosen size in Table 1.

Ask your building supply store for their estimate for fasteners as you are purchasing the lumber.

There are four places where building an 8 wide and a 10-12 wide shed differ.

These details are explained in full in the appropriate step.

I just want to point them out so you will be aware that most of the procedure is the same.

• 8 wide sheds use 2×4 floor joists, 10-12 wide sheds use 2×6 floor joists
• You should should add some 2×4 blocking where the large and small pieces of plywood join on 10-12 wide sheds for extra floor strength
• You will need to splice a 3 to 6 inch piece of scrap siding at the top of the gable end truss on 10-12 wide sheds
• On a 10 wide shed door you will need to change the spacing and add one additional upright to the inner door frame

Otherwise the differences are the length and number of components you will need, as detailed in Tables 2 and 3.

When a Figure show a letter (“A”, “B”, “C” etc.), you can find this dimension in table Table 2.

Table 3 shows the number of floor joists, wall studs and trusses you will need based on the length of the floor/wall your are building. For example if you are building a 12 foot long floor, you will need 10 floor joists. But if you are building a 12 foot wall you will need 7 studs for that wall.

But first I have several recommendations that will save you time, money and effort.

Buy 2×4 Precut studs if you can find them

The first is to use 2×4 precut studs if you can find them. Precuts are 2×4’s that are 92 5/8 inches long as opposed to the normal 8 ft.Use them for wall studs and trusses and you’ll save 25 to 50 cents per board.

If your building supply store doesn’t carry them then just use full 2x4x8ft lumber.

Use screws instead of nails

The second thing I suggest is to use screws instead of nails. Screws have better pulling power and can pull a twisted board into place better than a nail can. Screws also have better holding power. This means they will hold your 2×4 frame in place tighter and longer time than nails can.

Drill 1/8 inch pilot holes

Whether you’re using screws or nails I recommend drilling 1/8 inch pilot holes when assembling the frame because this will prevent splitting the ends of your boards. Also your nails or screws will not go astray because of the grain of the wood, nor will you have a problem with knots.

This might add a little additional time to your shed building project but it will make construction much easier for the novice builder. But if you have a nail gun then by all means use it. Just be careful to not split the ends of your wood.

Use pre primed composite hardboard siding

Using pre primed 4×8 sheets of composite hardboard siding will allow you to build your shed in the least amount of time and for the least amount of money. And composite siding holds paint much better than natural wood.

This will save you the step of applying a base coat of primer and your paint job will last longer. Which means you won’t have to repaint your shed as often.

Make your own trim

Make your own trim from sheets of composite hardboard siding. You can buy 4×8 sheets of the same siding but with no grooves, and rip them into 2 1/2 inch strips with a table saw.

If your building supply store doesn’t sell no groove siding then just use regular grooved siding. But then you will have to spend a little additional time cutting around the grooves if you want your trim to look its best. Two sheets of no groove siding will give you more than enough trim to build up to a 12×20 shed.

You don’t absolutely need a table saw. You can cut the trim strips with a circular saw but your cuts will not be nearly as clean as with a table saw. In fact I suggest that you borrow or rent a table saw if you don’t have one because it will give you a much cleaner finished shed.

Tools

Here’s a list of tools you’ll need to build your shed. If you don’t have some of them likely you know someone who does who will let you borrow them for a week end or two.

Hand tools

• Claw hammer
• Tape measure and pencil
• Speed square
• Level
• Chaulk line
• Tin snips
• Step ladder
• Utility knife
• Hand saw

Power tools

• Extension chords
• Circular Saw
• Electric drill, 1/8 inch drill bits and philips screw driver bits
• Router with a 1/4 inch bit and a follow collar
• Table saw

Paint Equipment

• Caulk gun
• Brush
• Roller and cage (or spray gun)

Disclaimers

Now before we get started with the actual building I have a couple of disclaimers…

Building Permits

You might need building permits to build a shed in your area so check with your local building department before you get started.

Building codes

The construction techniques in these plans might not meet building codes in your area as they vary around the country. So your building department might ask you to make a few changes to these plans.

But the building departments are usually very helpful and will let you know exactly what their requirements are.

No guarantees

Even though I have build thousands of sheds like this with no problems, I make no guarantees about the structural integrity of this shed.

Step 1: Foundation

The main function of your sheds foundation is to transfer the weight of your shed and its contents to the ground.

But it also serves several other important functions.

• It provides a way to level your shed if necessary
• It protects your sheds floor against moisture
• And it protects your shed against termites
• When necessary can protect your shed from movement resulting from frost heave, water or wind.

4 General Types Of Shed Foundations

• Simple skid foundation on earth, gravel or concrete blocks
• Wood and concrete pier foundation
• Concrete slab which serves as both a foundation and floor
• Floor-less foundation when you want to build a shed without a floor

Simple Skid Foundation

See Table 2 and Figure 2

Cut your skids to length using measurement “B” From Table 2 in your shed plans. Don’t trust the factory cuts because large pieces of dimensional lumber are usually ¼ to ½ inches longer than stated.

Select a location with adequate drainage then clear and level the building area.

You can lay the skids directly on the ground, on concrete blocks, or on a bed of gravel.

Their spacing will differ depending on the width of the shed you’re building. The measurement for the skid spacing is measurement “D” in Table 2, and is shown on Figure 2: Floor Dimensions and Layout.

If your site is fairly level you can lay the skids directly on the ground.

Shed Tie Downs

If you expect to have a problem with your shed moving from frost heave, water or wind, or if it’s required by building codes in your area you can tie your shed down.

I’ve already covered shed tie downs in these other posts…

• Why you might need to tie your shed down
• Cheap home made shed tiedowns
• Frost heave and your shed foundation

If you need to then just skip over to my shed tie down posts to see what you need to do before you begin the next step, which is building the floor.

Wood And Concrete Pier Foundation

The location, number, size and depth of the piers might be dictated by building codes. It will also be a function of the weather in your area. You might need to dig down below the frost line to get the best results.

In the absence of building codes and with moderate weather you should have a pier at each corner, about 12 inches in diameter and going down 24 to 36 inches into the ground. In addition you will need a concrete block support every 4 feet or less in between the piers.

Dig Holes

Install Piers

Finished Foundation

Foundation for floor less shed

You don’t necessary need a floor in your shed as long as you have a suitable foundation. Here are 2 foundation options if you want to build without a floor.

• Pressure treated wood with post and concrete piers
• Concrete stem wall

It’s important that you build the foundation tall enough to keep the siding away from the ground where moisture and termites will damage your shed. I recommend at least 4 inches of distance between the ground and any untreated wood. Like the bottom edge of the siding.

One way to accomplish this is by increasing the stud length. This will reduce the lower siding overhang and make your walls taller. I recommend a minimum of 1 inch lower siding overhang to prevent water from seeping under the bottom plate.

This means your foundation needs to be at least 5 inches above ground level.

How deep you go will depend on building codes, frost level and if you will have animals trying to dig under your foundation to get in or to escape.

Pressure treated wood with post and concrete piers

Layout perimeter

Install post and piers

Attach shed

Got animals?

As an option you can install more pressure treated wood below ground level to keep animals from digging under the walls.

Concrete stem wall

Another option is to build a concrete stem wall.

Attach with j-bolts

Step 2: Floor

• Click here if you want to build your shed on a concrete slab.

If you live in an exceptionally wet area or have a major termite problem you might want to use pressure treated wood for the entire floor including the skids, the floor joists and the plywood sheeting.

This will add to the initial cost of your shed but it might also save you money in the long run because a floor built with pressure treated lumber will last longer in these areas.

Prepare your materials… See Table 1 and Table 2: Get the number of floor joists you will need from Table 3, and the cut length for the band boards and floor joists and skid spacing from Table 2.

See Figure 2: Cut your band boards and floor joists and lay out the band boards for 16 inches on center and drill two pilot holes for each 2x4joist, or three holes for each 2×6 joist.

If you are building an 8 wide and using 2″x4″x92 5/8″ precuts then you can use them here without any cutting. They will be 3/8″ short but this will be split in half to 3/16″ on either side when you cover the floor with plywood. You will save a few dollars over 2″x4″x8’ers and no one will be the wiser.

10 and 12 wide sheds use 2″x6″ joists so you will have to cut them to length.

Frequently asked questions

How strong is this floor?

My standard floors are strong enough for almost any application. I have a 24×20 shed (garage) floor built with 2×6’s at 16 inch O.C. and 4×4 skids at 48 inch O.C that I have been parking 2 full sized pickups on for the last 5 years, and the floor is still sturdy.

How can I make the floor stronger?

• You can make the floor stronger by putting the skids, blocks and joist closer together. 12 inch O.C. for the joists is about as strong as you can get. Put a few more skids underneath and more blocks under the skids making them closer together will add a lot of strength.
• Then you could use larger joists, like 2×8 or 2×10.
• And finally you can add another layer of plywood or 2 on top of the existing one.

Step 3: Trusses

• Read this post first if you want to use a ridge board in your shed
• Read this post if you want to change the roof pitch to 4/12 or 5/12

Make the trusses now because you’ll need two of them to build the gable end walls in the next step.

It’s important that all your trusses be the same height and width so that the ridge line of your new shed will be symmetrical. You can do this by making a simple jig.

Make a jig: Place two pencil marks eight feet apart on the edge of the unused 2×4 top plate.

Now cut two small pieces of wood and screw them to the outside of these marks. Then screw this jig assembly to the floor.

Prepare your materials: Measure and cut the pieces for the trusses. Use a speed square to mark the angles.

Drill a pilot hole in one of the pointy ends of every other truss piece so you can toe nail them together at the top joint. Also drill four pilot holes in both ends of the collar beams.

Assemble trusses: Put the ends of two truss pieces into the jig and press everything together.

Toe nail the top joint with a single screw through the pilot hole.

Position a collar beam parallel to the jig and screw it to the truss with four screws on each side.

Make a pencil mark on the floor along the top of the truss so you can compare the rest of your trusses to this mark as you build them. If a truss is off significantly you will know it immediately.

After you have built all the trusses you can double check them by standing them up on end and measuring the distance from the floor to the peak of the truss. If they are all equal (or close enough), then you are finished and can disassemble the jig.

If some of your trusses are slightly off, don’t despair. If you use them properly this will not be a problem. Simply use the shortest pair of trusses to build the gabled ends with. Use the single tallest truss in the center of the shed. Use the next tallest pair, one truss on either side of the center truss. Use the last pair next to the gable ends. This way the roof will still be symmetrical and you won’t not have to waste or rebuild the less than perfect trusses.

Step 4: Walls

You will build all the walls directly on the empty floor.

• Read this post first if you want to build your shed with 8ft wall height.
• If you’re going to build your shed on a concrete slab read this post to learn about anchor bolt placement and to find out how to make your shed 3 inches taller.

You’ll want to build the shorter walls first so you can move them aside and use the floor space to build the longer and heavier walls in place. Here I’m assuming the gable end walls are the shorter and therefore lighter walls.

If not go to Step 4b and build the sidewalls first, move them aside, then come back here to build the gable end walls in place.

4a: Gable end walls

See Figure 4a and Table 2:
Measure and cut the wall studs and plates for the gable end walls. Layout the top and bottom plates at 24” O.C. and drill two 1/8 inch pilot holes for each stud.

Paint Now?

Now that all the walls are complete you might want to paint the walls and trim while you can work on them laying horizontally. They will be much easier to paint this way.

Step 5: Build The Door

This door construction method saves time and materials because you are using the materials cut out from the rough opening that would otherwise be thrown away.

You will make an outer frame which is built in the wall and the inner frame which is the actual door. You will frame and sheet these two simultaneously.

Later in step 7 you will cut the door out.

This is the most complicated part of building your shed. It’s not difficult, it’s just lots of details. But if you follow the steps closely you will have few if any problems.

There are 2 places where you can get in trouble here

• Not properly locating your cut lines before you nail your siding in place.
• Nailing the door to the bottom plate so that it will not open.

Otherwise just follow the steps for a strong and reliable door.

You can put the door in either the gable end wall or in a sidewall. The only difference is which king stud you will use.

Door on gable end

Door on sidewall

Double doors

Motorcycle shed

If you plan on using your shed for motorcycle parking then you might want to make the door about 60 inches wide. You might even think about adding a second door to make the shed drive through.

Wider or narrower doors

These instructions will make a door with a rough opening width of 43 inches. This is usually big enough for most large items like wheelbarrows or lawnmowers.

To make the door wider or narrower just adjust the length of the door header to give your desired rough opening size then add or subtract the same amount to the horizontal cross pieces and horizontal trim pieces.

Door location

You can place the door anywhere on any of the walls you like. However I recommend that you place it on some increment of 12 inches. Then the location of the vertical uprights are covered by Figure 5b.

Otherwise just add an additional vertical upright to the inner door frame where the siding breaks.

Make the outer door frame

Make the inner door frame

Important

Locate your cut lines

Inner door trim

Outer door trim

Step 6: Raising And Attaching The Walls

Cheating when necessary…

If a wall doesn’t line up with the floor then put a car jack under the floor and raise it up to fit the wall. Nail that part of the wall in place then move the jack.

Do this at any place where the floor doesn’t meet the wall.

Remember this cheat when you apply the roof sheeting. Put a jack under a corner and raise it up till the roof sheeting comes in line with the truss. Then nail that piece down. Do the same with the rest of the pieces. Experiment with jacking different corners or walls until you get the results you want.

After the roof is sheeted then go around and re level the floor.

If your shed is slightly out of square at the end of all of this, don’t worry as it will not be enough to notice. This is the real world way to make all the pieces fit together.

In my shed building business I have special pulling straps and jacks for this purpose because sheds never come together perfectly without a little “assistance”. But any old car jack will do.

Caution:

Which ever wall contains the door, don’t nail across the bottom of the door because that will be nailing it shut.

Remove the carrying handles.

Now it’s starting to look like a shed…

Step 7: Finish The Door

Step 8: Install Trusses and Frame The Roof

• Read this post first if you want to include the optional 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inch overhang on all 4 sides

Optional overhang

If you want to add 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 inches of overhang then read this step now. Continue below for no overhang.

Step 9: Install The Trim

See Figure 9 for cut dimensions

Gable end trim

Corner trim

Eave trim

Trim gable end pieces

Step 10: Shingle The Roof

Installing shingles on the roof of your shed might seem complicated but it’s easy if you take it one step at a time.

Use 3/4 inch long galvanized roofing nails for all the roof work.

Eave drip edge

Felt paper

Gable end drip edge

Starter row

Alternate rows with half tab removed

Shingle spacing

Stack some supplies

Cutting surface

Keeping your rows straight

Cut ridge cap

Nail ridge caps

Storage Shed Maintenance

Congratulations! You’ve just built a storage shed and saved a ton of money at the same time.

Now you need to protect your investment for the long term.

Paint:

The first thing you need to do is to paint your new shed. Paint serves 2 functions. The first is to make your shed look good. The second and most important is to protect your shed. Paint is a barrier against the elements that keeps water and the sun from damaging the wood. It is a protective coating.

Caulking covers the large gaps that paint can’t cover. Then you paint the caulk to protect it too.

So give your new shed 2 coats of the best paint you can find. The better the paint the longer it will last which means time and money saved on repainting in the years ahead.

A good quality paint will last 5 to 10 years. Keep a close eye on it as it gets older and re caulk and re paint when necessary.

Termites:

Whether done intentionally or accidentally, when termites find a path into the un treated wood of your shed they will make themselves at home and do damage to the wood long before you ever notice their presence.

Protect your shed from termites by keeping any dead plants away from your shed. Termites will eat the dead plants and find their way into the shed. Also avoid leaning untreated wood against the outside of your shed for the same reason. If you decide you need a ramp, then make it from pressure treated wood. I will not rot and is resistant to termites.

Loose fasteners:

Your shed is put together with nails, screws and carriage bolts. But over time the wood these fasteners are installed into will relax and the fasteners will loosen up.

After your shed is 3 to 6 months old, walk around it with a hammer and inspect for nails heads that are popping up. This mostly happens in the floor. Just pound them back in. If it happens on the outside, re touch the paint around the area that the nail head broke through.

If the fasteners holding your door come lose, your door will start sagging. So be pro active here and keep the screws or bolts tight so your door stays in proper align.

Roof:

Replace any loose or missing shingles immediately. Check the inside of your shed regularly for stains that indicate water damage. If you find some stains inside your shed, that is a sign that your roof has a leak.

Once you have found the leak, how you repair it will depend on where it’s located. Usually replacing any missing shingles and the proper application of a good quality caulk or roof coating will do the job.

Ground Settling:

After awhile you might notice your door latch doesn’t line up properly and you have to struggle to close the door. Your first thought is that the door is sagging. But in fact the shed has settled and is throwing the door out of align.

If and when this happens then jack up one corner of the shed until the door comes back in line and re block your shed. You might have to do this once or twice over time until the shed is completely settled.

Buy The Plans To Build This Shed