This is the most complicated of the steps so let’s get it out of the way first. Cut the following pieces per the shed plans:
- Door header
- Top and bottom plates
- Inner door frame
- Outer door frame
Remember that two of the outer door frame uprights will be cut at an angle and the other two will be cut square.
Door header: The 3 1/2 inch wide strip of 1/2 inch OSB will fit between the two 2×4 headers to make it a full 3 1/2 inches thick.
Pilot holes: Measure and mark for, then drill 1/8 inch pilot holes for the screws. This will prevent splitting the wood.
Pre assemble: Align the bottom ends of the 2 outer door frame pieces and attach the 2 together with 2 inch screws every 8 to 10 inches from top to bottom. Then assemble the 3 pieces of the door header with 3 1/2 inch screws every 8 to 10 inches.
Outer door frame: Attach the header to the outer door frame, then screw the bottom plate in place. Attach the top plate but make sure it doesn’t extend into the plane where the siding will be nailed.
Top plate: Put a 2×4 spacer under the outer door frame with the short side up. Then place another 2×4 along the top (short side) of the outer door frame and bring the top plate up so it touches. Then attach the top plate to the door frame This will assure that the top plate does not interfere with the siding laying flat.
Outer door frame: This is what the outer door frame looks like assembled. It has a single bottom plate on the bottom, sandwiched header and top plate on the other end. Make sure the short side of the 2×4 door frame is up because this is where the siding will be installed.
Spacers: Remove the 2×4 from under the door frame and lay the frame on a flat surface. Cut eight 3×3 spacers from the top of the siding you will be using for this wall. Place 2 spacers into each corner of the outer door frame.
Check for fit: Place the top and bottom horizontal inner door cross pieces into their top and bottom positions to check for fit.
Uprights: Place the left and right uprights in place to check for fit.
Assemble inner door frame: Remove the pieces and assemble the inner door frame on a nearby flat surface.
If you haven’t done so already, now is the time to drill 1/8 inch pilot holes for the ends of the top and bottom plates and centers of the vertical uprights. Assemble the inner door frame with 3 1/2 inch screws.
The inside joint last center cross piece will have to be toe nailed in place.
Make sure the finished frame sits flat on the floor and doesn’t rock indicating that it is out of square.
Mark centers: Mark the centers of the 3 uprights and 3 horizontal cross pieces so you will know where to nail. Also place a mark 1/2 inch from the outside of the door frame. This will be the mark you line the door sheeting up to so you know it is spaced properly.
This shows the same marks at the bottom of the door frame.
Door sheeting: Cut the door sheeting per the shed plans but double check the measurements against the actual door frame. Make certain that it is square because you will square the frame to this piece.
Check it’s square by pulling a tape measure diagonally across the corners in each direction. If the measurements are the same then it’s square.
Now lay it into place along the pencil marks on the header. Center it side to side between the marks at the top of each vertical door frame. Put a 2 inch galvanized nail into each of the corners into the underlying 2×4’s of the inner door frame. Do not nail this sheet to the outer door frame because this would be nailing the door shut.
Go to the bottom of the sheeting and line it up between the bottom marks on either door frame. If they don’t line up then pull the frame into shape until they do line up.
Put a nail into each corner using the marks on the frame to locate the underlying 2×4. At this point you will have 4 nails in the sheeting.
Top “trim”: Cut sis 1×3 spacers from the cut off from this siding. Lay the remainder of the top cutoff on top of the door as shown and place 2 of those spacers between the top piece and the door sheeting.
Line the grooves up for appearance, then mark and cut the excess. Then nail it on with 2 inch galvanized nails.
If you are going to use a router to trim the excess then just nail it on and trim it after the next step.
Side “trim”: Lay the side pieces on with spacers at the top and bottom. Measure, cut and nail them on.
If you are going to use a router then cut the length and nail them on.
Route excess: Route the excess from all sides. You will have to make a starter cut at both bottoms because the overhang has no 2×4 underneath for the router bit to follow as a guide.
Router bit: Use a flush cut follow bit with a ball bearing that will follow the 2×4 underneath and give a perfect cut.
Chalk lines: Snap a chalk line on the 3 vertical inner door pieces and the 3 horizontal door pieces.
Guide marks: Use your center marks that will show through in the door gap to locate the 2×4’s underneath.
Mount hinges: I like to attach my hinge with 1/4 inch carriage bolts for security and to discourage door sag. You will need a long drill bit that will go through 4 inches of wood. The easiest option is to mount the hinges with 3 inch screws.
Secure door: Screw some scraps on the latch side of the door to keep it closed and in place.
Nuts and washers: Turn the door over and install the washers and nuts.
Cut excess: Trim the excess off the bolts with a hacksaw so you will not snag your clothes on a protruding end.
This is the longest step but the door end is now finished.